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      Jeans Are Getting More Sustainable


      Last year the Ellen MacArthur Foundation released a set of guidelines called "Jeans Redesign." Written for denim manufacturers, it lays out suggestions for making the world's most popular pants more sustainable. These guidelines include:


      · Designing so that a pair of jeans can withstand at least 30 washes (some critics say this sets the bar far too low)


      · The garment includes clear product care information on labels


      · Contains at least 98 percent cellulose fibers made from regenerative, organic or transitional farming methods


      · Does not use hazardous chemicals, conventional electroplating, stone finishing, sandblasting, or potassium permanganate in finishing


      NelliSyr/Getty Images

      When Treehugger first reported on these guidelines in 2019, they were brand new and had not yet been applied practically. But over the past year, the companies that pledged initial support have been working hard to turn them into reality. There are nearly 70 participants in total, and now this fall several companies have launched jeans for sale that adhere to the guidelines, proving that this can work.


      A five-minute documentary on YouTube outlines the process to date, and how the above-mentioned brands have approached their own jean redesigns. They share a collective sense of frustration with the fashion industry's current "take, make, waste" approach – "Take from the earth, make a product, and waste it" – and a strong sense of obligation to reverse it.


      As Kelly Slater, founder of Outerknown says , "You can build things in a great way with a good cause and a good intention, but at the end of the day, if it ends up in landfill, then there is a problem." He's right, which is why each of the participating brands has a program to receive used items at the end of their life, to recycle and repurpose into new denim.


      At the risk of sounding overly negative, I do find these individualized return schemes to be somewhat impractical. While I understand the positive intent behind them, is it realistic to expect people to send back single items of clothing to separate brands for recycling? Usually, wardrobe clean-outs happen in a fit of passion (at least they do in my house) and the last thing I want to do is sort through everything to determine whether a company I supported years previous has a special recycling program. Sometimes the labels are so worn that I can't even read the original source.


      What's needed is a more comprehensive, streamlined approach to garment recycling, where all items eligible for recycling can be sent and redistributed back to their original manufacturers. Otherwise, it may prove too inconvenient for individual customers to follow through. What this would actually look like, I don't know, but perhaps facilities could be set up according to the textile type, e.g. denim, cotton, wool, etc.


      Furthermore, some brands will be waiting for a very long time to get the minimum quantity they need to experiment with proper recycling. I encountered this when researching Finnish raincoat company Reima. They said, "We’re currently planning the first recycling pilot with selected project partners, which can then be carried out when enough jackets are returned to us." But that could take years!


      內容來自 聽力課堂網:http://www.uukh.cn/show-138-485283-1.html

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